Get Prints No visible lines
If you print on 0.08mm layer height generally the layer lines are not visible. It’s just stock CURA super fine settings with layer height changed to 0.08 from 0.12.
Generally, any line width less than the flat at the end of the nozzle will work and the loss of side detail isn’t really an issue unless you literally have side detail dimensions less than an mm. It does, however, make prints stronger by improving line adhesion and it also lowers print times significantly while allowing you to maintain low layer heights, 0.6mm line width, and 0.2 height will put down the same amount of plastic as 0.25 height at 0.4 line width. And for the vast majority of prints and pretty much any functional print there really isn’t any downside to a 20-30% wider than nozzle outer layer and 50+% wider for everything else.
2. ABS with FLSUN V400
Trying to use the V400 with ABS plastic but it won’t heat up to the right temperature? Have tried both changing the temperature manually in controls and editing the CURA profile to higher temperatures without any success. The CURA profile is set to reach 230°C and 100°C build plate but when importing it to the printer it switches to 220°C and 60°C build plate?
– First check if the Cura profile also has the first layer /initial print temperature set to 230. The V400 has Klipper with Mainsail/Fluidd， Just edit the File on the Web interface and search and replace all M104 S220 with M104 S230, the same for M109 (wait for temp). And if you put those 4 and 9s into position 2, so M140 and M190, that’s the temps for the bed.
3. Very poor quality even at low speeds
Calibrate your Z-offset on a flat piece of glass, not on the textured PEI. If your PEI sheet is flat on the bottom, Just turn it around. 99% the nozzle is too far away. Try adjusting it via baby-stepping while printing a bed-level calibration pattern.
It is either a dirty bed, too high Z, too high cooling, an unlevel bed, or a combination.
1. Clean with water and soap, rinse with water, dry with a clean paper towel, clean with isopropyl alc and a paper towel or clean microfibre cloth
2. heat bed to 65°C
3. print a bed leveling model with a skirt with 5-10 lines width
4. watch your printer closely, preferably with a flashlight, and baby-step the nozzle down in the smallest possible steps. You want to go down until you nearly can’t make out the individual ridges of the lines anymore. Then go up just a smidge.
If you are too close, the filament will budge up between the lines, if you are too far you see a ridge in the middle of the lines.
4. Move out of range error
Downloading some other files (gcode) and every one of them comes back with move out of range: 25.223 0.635 418.113 [0.000]
– Instead of downloading Gcode, download an STL and slice it yourself.
– The Gcode is most likely a slicer for a Cartesian printer, not a delta, so it’s most likely trying to move to a corner that simply doesn’t exist on your printer.
5. Not Starting
It was the Mac thing.
Managed to get a print-off yesterday, by selecting the non-dot filename.
In other fantastic news, I managed to fix my wifi (moonraker) access issue as well. It happened kinda by mistake. I happened to have to unplug my router and plug it back in, which reboots the router. This assigned the printer a new IP address. When I noticed that this morning, I punched it into my browser, and “BAM” just like that, Moonraker showed up in all its glory.
In less fantastic news, I had printed a little toolbox for my V400 tools, as my test, and it exhibited quite a bit of grinding while trying to print using my slicer settings (which I based on material selection “PLA” in Cura, as opposed to the V400 defaults). I tried lifting the print nozzle up a little to avoid this and also increase flow to 105% (having no idea what that would do). Though it printed, I had a few areas with spaghetti build-up, and when I tried to peel away the skirt, it tore off the entire bottom surface of the print. The hinges also fused together during the print which also snapped when I tried folding the 2 parts together.
More solutions: try restarting all the screens, firmware, software, turn off and on, etc
6. Layer Issues
The power supply fan should run all the time (ignore the lies stamped into the metalwork).
If it isn’t running you have a problem with the mains feed to the supply, or with the power supply. Try again with the power supply red (+24v) wire disconnected to check it isn’t a short circuit output stopping the supply.